niche bucketlist #4
Peninsula Valdés, Argentina
Welcome to the niche bucketlist series, where I explore an obscure destination I’ve been obsessed with and take you along for the research. The goal here is to learn about less-known yet fascinating places around the world and plan out realistic ways to visit them. The niche bucketlist is a weekly newsletter featuring a new destination every Sunday until I run out.
Let’s learn something new together!
If you know me, you know that I’m obsessed with the most random animals and I’m never above planning a trip entirely around them.
The list is long, but on top of the imaginary hierarchy of animals I’d chase around the world, the apex predator if you will, is without question the orca. And in fact, I have already done that—going to Western Australia for this very reason later got me stuck in Perth for a whole year so it may not have been worth it, but I did manage to see killer whales in the wild. And now I want to do it again.
One day, out of boredom, I typed the word “orca” into Netflix and discovered a Spanish-Argentine film called “Lighthouse of the Orcas”. This movie not only made me cry, but also provided me with yet another place I must visit before I die, Peninsula Valdés in Argentina.
what & where
Valdés is a small peninsula in the northeast of the Chubut province in Argentine Patagonia. It’s connected to the mainland only by a relatively narrow isthmus, making the peninsula semi-isolated from the rest of the world geographically.
This remoteness, in combination with a desert-like terrain and climate, makes human life on the peninsula challenging. The only real town in Valdés is Puerto Pirámides, which boasts a whopping 500 inhabitants. The rest of the population consists mostly of a few scattered estancias, or sheep stations.
The lack of humans is, however, compensated for by rich wildlife both on land and in the sea. Valdés is home to a variety of animals, especially marine mammals like seals, whales, and, of course, orcas. For this reason, Peninsula Valdés is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a protected nature reserve.
why visit
ORCAS!!!
Orcas are the second most widespread species on Earth after humans and can be found on every continent. So why go all the way to Argentina to see them?
Well, the orcas in Peninsula Valdés are special. They’ve developed a one-of-a-kind hunting technique that involves beaching themselves on purpose to snatch a seal from the shore. Even more fascinating, they have also been known to pass this knowledge down through generations.
This high-risk, high-reward skill has only ever been observed in a select few killer whales, and they all live in Valdés, which makes it one of the best destinations for orca watching worldwide.
nature
Aside from how stunning the rugged coastline of Valdés is visually, it’s also absolutely brimming with wildlife. Besides the famous orcas, you can partake in activities like snorkeling with sea lions, chilling at the beach with dozens of little penguins, or kayaking with whales. If you’re a nature and adventure lover, this place is a paradise.
how to get there & around
Maybe it’s because the beaches and remote wilderness reminded me of Western Australia, but my original idea for this trip was vanlife—rent a van in Buenos Aires, then drive down to Valdés and maybe even further south to southern Patagonia if time allows.
Upon further research, this proved not to be such a good idea for the following reasons:
The road to Valdés is on the opposite side of the country from the road most people drive down to Patagonia, one close to the Chilean border where all the famous sites are. It doesn’t make sense to combine the two trips unless you have an infinite amount of time to do so.
Peninsula Valdés is a protected area where wild camping is prohibited, and the only campsite is in Puerto Pirámides, more than an hour away from where the orcas appear.
All things considered, I wouldn’t go out of my way to do this in a van so here are some alternative options.
fly to Trelew & rent a car
Roadtripping still is the best way, since one needs a car to visit different beaches and viewpoints on the peninsula. The closest airport is in Trelew (Google tells me it’s a city founded by Welsh immigrants, hence the strange name), and you can fly there from Buenos Aires or Cordoba.
I’d rent a car at Trelew airport and make my way to Puerto Pirámides, which is a ~2 hour drive away. Once there, I’d seek accommodation or camp, and I’d have to drive over an hour up the peninsula every morning in hope of an orca sighting.
bus it
The budget option is to come to Puerto Pirámides by bus from either Trelew or Puerto Madryn. However, to then see all the wild and remote parts of the peninsula, one has to rely on organized tours, which can be arranged in town.
Or make friends with someone who has a car, I guess.
boujee option
The only way to stay anywhere on the peninsula that’s not Puerto Pirámides is by booking a night at one of the estancias. This is a pricey alternative, but it provides you with a real nature immersion, as well as an insight into the specific way of life on the station.
what else to know
Tourism in Valdés is dictated by a wildlife calendar. Orcas are present September through May, with peaks in October/November in Caleta Valdés and March/April in Punta Norte. Of course, these are just estimates, as the orca behavior is highly unpredictable and correlates with the births of young sea lions and elephant seals.
The cost of this trip is hard to predict, as the Argentine peso is unstable and the exchange rates fluctuate often and to extremes.
Since the entire peninsula is a nature reserve, there is an entry fee that must be paid in cash upon arrival. For foreign nationals, this is said to be around 30 USD, but again, the actual amount depends on the current state of the peso.
It’s necessary to book accommodation and tours well in advance, especially if you’re coming for the orca season. The options are limited and fill up quickly.
In next week’s niche bucketlist we’re going to: the Caribbean 🌴
And in case you missed last week’s destination, check it out below ⬇️
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Thank you for being here xx
fialka
Saved! ✅🤞
I’ve saved up like a quarter million airline miles looking for the perfect international trip and this might just be it